Tips to keep your central heating system running smoothly
General Do’s and Dont’s
- Do get your system serviced annually, preferably before the heating season starts.
- Don’t wait till it is cold to find out there is a problem.
- Don’t let the fuel supply run out—this is the most common cause of heating failure and may result in air locks in the fuel supply.
- Don’t drain the system unless absolutely necessary as you will lose the inhibitor and may invalidate the guarantee.
- Don’t adjust anything in the underfloor heating cabinet. If you have a query please call your installer.
- Don’t damage the fine copper pipe running to the fire check valve on a diesel fuel line. This may cause the valve to shut down the fuel supply to the boiler.
Topping Up the System Pressure
- Remove boiler front cover.
- Remove cap on boiler water inlet and attach hose fitting (Standard Nylex fitting or similar).
- Attach garden hose to the mains water supply.
- Turn on hose and run until all air has been purged from the hose.
- Turn off the hose and attach to the boiler water inlet.
- Turn the hose back on.
- Open the valve (on the boiler water inlet), whilst watching the pressure gauge on the front of the boiler. If the valve is remote from the boiler a second person will be required to watch the gauge.
- When the pressure gauge reaches 1 bar close the valve on the boiler water inlet.
- Turn off the hose at the mains supply and remove the hose from the supply.
- Remove the hose from the boiler water inlet.
- Remove the hose fitting from the boiler and replace the cap.
- Replace the boiler front cover.
If the Boiler Doesn’t Start
|That the controls are calling for heat, indicated by a flame sign on the controller LCD screen.||If it is not calling for heat, turn the timers to the continuous or manual setting and turn the thermostat up to the maximum setting.|
|That the boiler has mains power.||If it doesn’t, check that the switch on the wall is on and that no circuit breakers have tripped or fuses have blown.|
|There is fuel in the fuel tank.||If there is no fuel you will have to put in more fuel and bleed the fuel line following the procedure below.|
|That no valves in the fuel line have been closed.||Open them if they have.|
|That the fire valve has not closed; check that there is no damage to the capillary tube that leads from the boiler to the valve outside.||If it is damaged you will have to call a service agent to check it and install a new one if necessary.|
|That the high limit switch hasn’t stopped the boiler. This is a thermostat inside the boiler. You will need to take the front panel off to check this.||Follow the procedure for checking and resetting the high limit switch at the end of this section.|
Bleeding the Fuel Line
2. Switch off the power to the boiler (at the wall).
3. Take the front off the boiler to expose the burner. The front cover is held on by clips and can be removed by pulling the cover directly away from the rest of the boiler.
4. Unscrew the two large screws holding the red burner cover on with a screwdriver. There are screws on top and on the front.
5. Unscrew the plug on the front of the burner. This is just above fuel line where it enters the burner.
7. When diesel appears carefully replace the screw.
8. Switch the boiler back on.
9. Press the red reset button at the front of the burner.
10. If it runs without stopping you can now put the burner cover back on. If it runs and then stops, you need to repeat the process from Step 5.
11. When it is running sufficiently, replace the boiler front cover by clipping it back on.
If you have a Tigerloop all you need to do is unclip the boiler front cover and press the reset button on the front of the burner (see above). Then set the controls so the boiler tries to start. If it resets without starting press the reset button again until it starts.
Checking and Resetting the High Limit Switch
1. Unclip the front cover from the boiler by pulling away from the main case.
2. Unscrew the protective cap.
3. Press in the reset button.
4. If it clicks it has been reset; if not, the switch has not been tripped and there will be another problem.
5. Replace front cover.
Bleeding the Radiators
The aim of this task is to open the bleed valve at the top of the radiator that allows the air to escape. It is best to do this when the system is hot and at higher pressure. This may result in the system pressure becoming too low and needing to be topped up.
WARNING: Do not open the valve too far as there is a risk the centre pin will come out. An excessive amount of water would be lost from your system causing water damage to the building around the radiator.
1. Locate the radiator bleed valve at the top, at one end of the radiator.
2. Rotate the white plastic end of the bleed valve (this doesn’t unscrew it) so that the hole points into the container.
3. Position the radiator bleeding tool supplied with this manual around the bleed valve.
4. Using the radiator bleeding key supplied unscrew the square shaped centre until you hear the hiss of air escaping. Don’t unscrew it too far as it may come out completely and excessive amounts of water will escape before you are able to replace it.
5. When most of the air has come out water will start to spray out. When there is a steady stream of water close the device. You can now empty the water from the bleeding tool.
6. Check the system pressure to make sure it is still above 1 bar. If it isn’t, top up the pressure following the procedure in the user maintenance section of the manual.
Clearing an Air Lock
- Turn off all the radiators except the one that isn’t working. (Set the TRVs to ‘0’)
- Force the system to run by turning up the thermostat and making sure the timer is on a ‘heating on’ period or set to ‘continuous’.
- After a short time the radiator should become hot.
- Follow the procedure for bleeding the radiator.